29 years old, originally from Francavilla Fontana (Apulia), Leonida Ferrarese is one of the up-and-coming talents in the fashion world. He describes himself as a dreamer, in love with his homeland and with a boundless passion for the art of tailoring.
A graduate of the Lumsa University of Rome, after a master's degree in marketing at the University of Buckingam in New York and six months' work experience at Ferragamo in New York, he is the CEO of Dalmut workshopthe luxury sartorial brand made in Apulia.
From Lapo Elkann, who had several garments customised in the very early days of the fashion house, to Anna Dello Russo, creative consultant for Vogue Japan, Dalmut counts among its frequent visitors international figures of great elegance.
AC Milan captain Ignazio Abate and Natuzzi's Rampollo Pasquale Junior also chose the workshop set up by the young Brindisi entrepreneur, which, to date, is described by many as the finest luxury tailor's shop on the Italian peninsula.
When and how was Dalmut born?
Dalmut is technically registered in 2011, then I experienced fashion in New York and other work experiences that have enriched my professionalism . The shop started working from closed in January February 2015 and officially opened its doors to the public in December 2015.
Do you have plans to open more stores?
At the moment we are considering several options including an opening on Milan. From 18 to 25 May we will be in New York for a very important event. At the end of the month, the new on-line store will also be launched: we will be expanding our e-commerce service, which is what allows us to move and meet the needs of customers overseas.
Do you only make made-to-measure suits?
The Dalmut concept stems from the made-to-measure suit. The suit must be designed together with the customer and tried on at least three times until perfection is achieved. Working in a closed workshop for about a year made me realise that the suit was not enough: the Dalmut style could not be explained through the suit alone. From this realisation Dalmut became a total lookaccessories, shirts, shoes, cufflinks.
Obviously, the same level of customisation cannot be achieved online. Precisely for this reason, only accessories will be sold online: the custom-made suit remains and must remain a physical experience.
Why did you decide to take this path?
I finished my studies and went to America. While living there, I attended a Master's programme in marketing and started to become passionate about it day after day. I began to study every single detail, never ceasing to strive for perfection.
I think I partly inherited this great passion from my grandfather, whom I never knew. My father always tells me that although he worked in a bank, he spent all his spare time locked up in the tailor's shop. I think he would be proud of me today.
So, when I realised that working in my family's construction company would not satisfy me, I decided to do something that would really satisfy me. For two years now, I have been waking up every day with a smile on my face, despite the difficulties that can be involved in this job.
What do you like about this job?
The best thing is to meet people like me. The idea of dealing with an active clientele that does not suffer the made-up garment but participates in the purchase and its realisation. A sort of fusion is realised between the creator and the end purchaser: the garment is not designed for twenty thousand pieces, but made to measure for the customer, realised four-handedly with the end user. This not only satisfies the purchaser's need for attention but also his desire for non-standardisation.
Do you only produce the men's line?
The only woman on whom we have tailor-made a dress is Anna Dello Russoat Paris Fashion Week. For the moment I prefer to structure myself on men's modelling, and perfect it as much as possible.
What would you say to young people who are willing to dare and take up this career?
What I feel like telling young people is that it is a very difficult job. You have to take care of every single detail, without leaving anything out. Sometimes people think that the fashion world is frivolous and ephemeral, but in reality there is fierce competition and you have to aim for the maximum, for perfection. That is why it is necessary, for example, to discard materials that are not suitable, to take only the best from suppliers, sometimes even paying twice as much as competitors. Keeping tough and rolling up your sleeves I believe are the foundations of this job.
It's not easy and I don't feel 'arrived' yet, in fact I would say I've just started. And perhaps never stopping trying and improving is the most important secret.
